Huge stretches of California’s spectacular coastline can’t
be seen from the road. Much of Central California’s Wilder Coast falls into
that category. But hop onto an ocean-going vessel and Wilder Coast’s glory
stands in full view. Of course, being on the ocean, she makes the call about
what that experience is like. Mother Ocean, in all her elements, was in a
particularly playful mood on this day.
The mood on Davenport Landing’s beach was pretty good, too. Ghostryders Santa Cruz organizes this race to help put wind in the sails of Junior Lifeguards. Their largest Davenport race to date was about to break all previous records for delivering the goods. This event is fast becoming a premiere downwinder, rivaling any. And the vibe is at once mellow and all about the fun.
Ghostryders' central office for the day |
Readying for battle. Friendly battle, but battle nonetheless |
John Alexiou and daughter Kali'a conferring about the line. Kali'a killed it in the 14-foot SUP Women's class |
No
matter who you are or what you may do to fund your lifestyle, you’re only one
thing here: a paddler. All equal. All facing the same challenge. All smiling
about all of that.
Today, the challenge is 14 miles in 20-knot winds whipping
the ocean into rideable wind waves punctuated by occasional cotton balls.
Leashes are highly recommended. There were a few hair-raising lost paddleboard
stories that appeared on the internet in the last few months. It happens before
there’s time to react. And on the Wilder Coast, there’s no “civilization” to
swim to.
Friend and training partner Mike McDaniel signed his company, Mile 22, on as a sponsor. Mike
generously invited me to go up with him. I trust Mike's Fat Straps for the best transport hold, with no pressure marks.
Mile 22 Debut |
It was a bit odd knowing Mike wouldn’t be in
the water. Also missing was Mike Roberts, who got called to the San Diego
fires. Shane Scoggins was at work. So, I was the lone Carmel-Monterey
paddler (that I know of). They weren’t the only Davenport regulars in absence: Joe Beek, Joe & Jack Bark, we
missed you, too.
As the starting time approached, I exhibited my usual
touches of disorganization. I almost forgot to tape gels on the board. And Mike
thoughtfully offered me my two water bottles. I scanned the starting line for
paddleboards, spotted a group of them and inserted mine – it’s not fun to go
out among SUPs waving and thrashing oars about.
Today, I was paddling a sparkling, brand-new Bark custom14-foot
CT. In the two weeks prior, I was hoping to try it in downwind conditions, but
that didn’t happen. On this day, it performed remarkably well. I’m already
calling it a magic board.
Due to the conditions, as well as to the board, I spent less
time paddling and more time riding bumps. The great paddlers connect the bumps,
levering from one wave to another. When connecting happens to me, it’s not
entirely intentional, but it’s a thrill every time. There were lined-up
northwest swells that tend to take paddlers towards shore, and there were waves
reflecting off the shore heading back outside. That made an easy job of staying
outside the kelp. And it all lined up
even better near the end.
Everyone spreads out quickly. That makes it difficult to
know where you are in the pack. It also means if there’s trouble, you’re likely
on your own. Although the conditions were the best I’ve seen, I still got
pitched off my board four or five times. The first spill was
early in the race. I lost a water bottle. I had only filled the second bottle
halfway, and now I was just going to have to make do with that. Each time I
came unglued, I was able to keep both hands on the board. The wind immediately
turned the board broadside to the swell and, now blowing crossbeam, wanted to
blow the board over. But I managed never
to lose contact with the board, keeping recovery time to a minimum.
Paul Ban caught up to me in the second half of the course. I
was glad to have his company, but with earplugs covered by my neoprene hoodie,
I couldn’t hear everything he was saying.
As busy as I was out there, I had the presence of mind to
take in the coastline. The light was perfect, the view entirely inspiring. I
took no camera because I was hoping to have my best course time in these great
conditions (I did).
I was surprised at how fast it felt like I got to the last
part of the course, even with all the bumps I racked up. Natural Bridges came
into view, then the West side, then the lighthouse. The bumps followed us
around the land’s bend eastward, not flattening until Steamer Lane. I had plenty of gas in the tank to get around
the Municipal Pier and take the final stretch.
Coming home. This day marked the 90th "birthday" of Santa Cruz Boardwalk's Giant Dipper (the roller coaster, top of photo) Photo: John Bostwick |
There were loads of boards on the beach ahead of me, but I
had both my best result and the best
time I’ve ever had at this event (my third). And here's my favorite results posting ever: my age was listed as "60 going on 50".
After hanging on the beach, Mike, John Bostwick and I headed up to the wharf. I loaded my paddleboard, John drove off, and Mike headed for the Ideal Bar & Grill. Before I caught up with Mike, I witnessed a scene that could only happen in Santa Cruz (or maybe Redondo Beach):
It was very temporary parking. The owner swooped up his ride shortly after I snapped the shot.
After hanging on the beach, Mike, John Bostwick and I headed up to the wharf. I loaded my paddleboard, John drove off, and Mike headed for the Ideal Bar & Grill. Before I caught up with Mike, I witnessed a scene that could only happen in Santa Cruz (or maybe Redondo Beach):
The after party was like a homecoming to all. Of the races I
have ever gone to, this one reliably features constant conversation at lofty
decibel levels lasting for hours. So much so, that Zack Wourmhoudt always has a tough
time getting the awards announced.
Friendly pandemonium |
I’m going to remember and savor this one for a long time to come.