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| Carmel Point and Point Lobos |
It was a day for paddlers of all ages to shine, and shine they did. The day featured parent-child tandem paddles, kids short paddles, the two-mile course around the 4th Avenue rock, and the nine-mile course that included a trip to Point Lobos.
But while the sun shone all day on Carmel Beach, not so on the nine-mile course. Here’s how the day went for this paddler, on that nine-mile course.
The Sunday before the race, Brian Mullen, Mike McDaniel and I took a paddle through the intended course. Conditions were easy, the weather and the light inspiringly perfect. We saw sea life, including dolphins, grey whales, a pod of orcas (thankfully headed away) and a wide range of jellies. We considered the course, and we simplified, reducing 6 required turns to just four. That reduced risks and increased simplicity.
The night before a race, I don’t stress and I usually sleep well. But not this time. I wasn’t dreaming about jellies, orcas, or even “The Landlord”. But there was an air of danger. Still, when I woke up, I was easily able to shake it off.
Race day came early, as my wife, DeeAnn, and I started hauling kayaks and other things needed for the race down to the beach. Concerns about fog arrived even before sunrise. Checking the Monterey Bay buoy, there was swell in the water from the south and the northwest.
The course is potentially demanding. The 2.5 mile stretch between Pescadero Point and Point Lobos is open ocean, and crosses the depths of the Carmel marine canyon. But there are a few other hazards, particularly around Carmel Point.
Here’s the description I used when I gave prerace instructions:
There are FOUR required turns.
The FIRST required turn is just short of a mile North up the beach. Look for the large rock – there will be a yellow kayak there. Keep the rock on your LEFT shoulder as you turn left or West. Stay will clear of the rock because the submerged parts around it are very shallow.
Proceed west, more than a mile to the red buoy, off of Pescadero Point. There’s a kayak at that buoy. From here on this beach you can see it out there as the point farthest out to sea on your right. Keep the buoy on your LEFT shoulder as you turn left and head for Point Lobos – From here on this beach you can see it out there as the point farthest out to sea on your left. Remember: LEFT TURN, LEFT SHOULDER.
Point Lobos is about 2.5 miles South-Southwest from Pescadero Point. There is a boat sitting at the next buoy at Point Lobos. You’re going to go around that boat, keeping the bout on your LEFT shoulder as you make a left turn.
There is water on that boat if you need it. If you’re not there by two hours into the race, you could be pulled from the course based on the judgment of our course marshals.
At this point, you will be headed for Monastery Beach. You can see the monetary up the hill from the beach. At the left side of the beach is a large stand of eucalyptus. Aim just to the right of the eucalyptus.
The next buoy is at Monastery Beach. There will be NO kayak at that buoy. Turn LEFT, with the buoy on your LEFT shoulder.
After your turn, you will be looking at Carmel Point and a very large kelp bed. You can take any line back to that first rock where you made your first required turn. HOWEVER, YOU ARE REQUIRED TO STAY OUTSIDE OF THE KELP BED for safety reasons, until you are about even with the middle of this beach.
When you get back to the rock that first rock where you made your first required turn, you will be keeping it on your RIGHT shoulder as you make a RIGHT turn. Again, stay well away from the rock as the submerged parts are very shallow.
There are no more required turns. Return here to the same place you started to finish the race.
The finish is between the cones you see on the beach.
The trip to the rock was the easy part. Turning to the west, the fog cloaked the buoy marking next required turn. It helped that I had some idea where the buoy would be, but it turned out to be farther away from Pescadero (south) and farther out to sea (west). But I found it. So far, so good.
Now, heading south-southwest for Point Lobos, the entirety of Point Lobos state park was shrouded in fog. I considered turning back -- a DNF (“did not finish”) would be far better than, say, being lost at sea. I thought about the risk, I thought about having been around the course only once before, and I thought about the safety team Brian had assembled. I headed straight for the fog bank, for reasons I can’t fully explain. Bottom line: my feelings were that I would be just fine, thanks, based on my abilities.
I could see the mountains above the mouth of Carmel Valley. Fortunately, I had seen this view with Point Lobos in full view so many times that I could mentally fill in the blanks and feel my way there. So I headed for what I strongly felt was the point. But I made a choice that was a bit uncomfortable. The others I met at the buoy were headed on a line inside of where I thought we all needed to go. I chose the more solitary line I thought correct.
The trip across to Point Lobos was where the waves of the open ocean really started to show. Some came at me straight from the side, but just as many had enough north in them to help me out. That they weren’t lined up with Point Lobos made holding my line only slightly difficult – I really only needed to pay attention.
At what turned out to be more than a half mile before the Point Lobos turn, there was just enough sun getting through to put a silver patina on the water. I saw the shadow of at least one paddler when we both were on crests. That paddler turned out to be Brian Mullen. He started angling towards me and asked me if I was on the right line. I said I thought so – had checked my compass and it looked right, but I hoped not too far outside. Too far west would mean missing Point Lobos all together, then you’re either lost or headed for an area aptly named “Devil’s Cauldron” well past the point. Brian stayed further inside.
I caught sight of the boat, and I heard Brian call out he had as well. I was wide maybe 50 to 80 yards. I knew the risk of getting lost out there was over, and I was suitably relieved. I headed east and started feeling the backwash off the point. After I passed the boat, I was surprised when the rocky promontory jumped out of the fog, closer than I wanted to be, but not so it felt risky.
Soon after that, some crossed up waves turned my board over – there was simply no way to counterbalance the force. I hung on to my board as it happened and thankfully recovered right away.
I later heard one highly experienced paddler call it “big water out there” after the race was over. Agreed. And yes, I know there’s even bigger water, as in Moloka‘i to Oahu, but I haven’t been there.
On my way east from Point Lobos, I saw a standup paddler fall a couple times, pick himself up, and go on. Admirable.
I couldn’t see Monastery Beach (the next required turn) until I was nearly there, and after making that turn, I found myself guessing where Carmel Point was (it was further away than I thought). The large kelp bed was the way to circumnavigate around Carmel Point, keeping us safely off of the reefs around it.
After passing Carmel Point, the welcome sight of a sun-soaked Carmel Beach came into full view. I let out a private cheer. I had preselected lineups for where to come in through a channel in the kelp and how to approach the rock we had first rounded and had to return to now, and I happily followed that plan.
As I approached the rock, my good friend and competitive nemesis, Brian, was already around it and approaching me, about twenty yards to my right. He had sewn up first place in the fourteen-foot class. I was genuinely happy for him, and gave him a shout. Now the pressure was off, conditions were ideal, and it was going to be pure fun from here.
I stroked home, adding a bit more power. At the end, I just missed catching a wave in and the paddler ahead. Brian grabbed my board, I checked to see if I had legs, and ran up the beach to the finish.
My first words were: “I’ve never been so glad to be home.”
And I meant it. Not just because I had safely made it through the challenges that were new for me, but also because I was proud to be a part of this all-new contest in my home waters. And because this contest has intensified the love I have for this place and the people I hang with day to day.
Did I mention the trophies were awesome? (Brian made them himself.)
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