Postcards from Maui - Going Home

11/10/2011


We awoke before dawn to the lovely sound of a distant marimba … since I left my iphone in the living room (that’s our alarm, and "marimba" is the sound it plays when it’s time to wake up). We were out the door on our run in early light. DeeAnn captured a few shots along our running route.  Here's the trail out on a point (click on images to enlarge). 

There's a path bordered by rocks. Really. Look closer!

Honolua Bay (of surfing fame) is in the distance, only about 2 miles off.

We ran this trail several times during our stay. Amazingly, neither of us is really a trail runner. More amazingly, neither of us fell! From the trail, we climbed up to higher views in Kapalua. Here are some of the views from Kapalua:

Sunrise

View towards Moloka'i

We returned from our run just in time to say our goodbyes to our friends who were leaving for Kaua'i just after 8.

By 8:45 a.m., we again emerged from our room, snorkel gear in hand, to bid farewell to turtles and reef fish. I gave DeeAnn a brief tour of the reef out in front of the point break, too.

There was enough left in the fridge for scrambled eggs with cheese, Portuguese sausage, and coffee. And, with that, we began to pack.  It was now our turn to make the goodbye sound all visitors must make: the click-click-click of our rollerboard luggage’s sidewalk trek from condo to car.

One of our condo “neighbors” created an exterior decoration reminding all passers by of something to look forward to: Valentine’s Day. This will be our 22nd, and there’s every reason to believe it will be the best ever. Here's the decorated condo:

The snorkel gear was dropped off, then I drove to Kihei so DeeAnn could scout for whales. The surfboard went home to Maui Wave Riders in Kihei, and then we were off the airport.

Every moment of every day here has been special and perfect. DeeAnn arranged a special treat: our return flight was nonstop from Kahului, Maui to San Jose (a mere five hours). As we approached the mainland around 10:30 pm, I spotted the bright lights of fishing boats dotting the ocean. Next, I could plainly see the outline of Santa Cruz's coastline below and  Monterey Bay to the south.  We were looking forward to getting home to our three cats.

Aloha!

Postcards from Maui - Day 12

Today was our last full day on Maui. There’s a gazebo that serves breakfast and lunch next door to where we are staying. It's cleverly named "The Gazebo." There isn’t a bad seat in the house. 

Small world story: The hostess notices my Bay-2-Bay race T-shirt and asks what that is. I explained it’s a race from Mission Bay to San Diego bay that include kayaks, outriggers, and paddleboards. So she said she wants to try paddleboarding and mimes holding a paddle. I said I’m a prone paddler, not standup, and she blurts out “Do you know so-and-so?” Yes, I said, I bought a paddleboard off him just last year. I love that prone paddling is a small community.

After breakfast, I surfed with grandpa turtle again and paddled the 10-foot rental epoxy board a mile or so. I came across 5 bodyboarders dealing rather well with a slab wave.  The rest of the day, I hung out.

Just before 5 pm, we situated ourselves with wine and appetizers at the outdoor spot surrounded on three sides by water, and watched the sunset unfold. 

A sliver of sun peeks through the clouds near the horizon, just above the island of Lana'i.

And as we walked the half mile back to our rental condo, we overheard: “The water’s warmer here than in Santa Cruz.” Yes, it is. Tomorrow we fly back to San Jose and by Saturday, I’ll be in even colder waters, in Carmel. And I will be happy with that, too.



We both have enjoyed every moment of being here on Maui’s Napili coast.

Aloha!

Poscards from Maui - Day 11

It’s nice to have a decent condo to rent, but it’s nicer to have the kind of weather to spend much of the day experiencing Hawai‘i outdoors. We’ve been blessed with a lot of outdoor time. This was another of those days for both of us, though we did it in different ways.

Our morning run was an extended surf check for me. Yep, everything, everywhere was going off. From reef breaks to shorebreaks to mutant slabs, it was all lit up. And even from a few miles off, it was apparent Honolua was maxing out. Not being interested in large crowds of local heavies, I gave Honolua a pass and opted to spend the late morning in the water right in front of our digs looking for a few good waves. I was richly rewarded. The break was occupied by surfers who preferred to go right. So I had the left-hander to myself. It didn’t come often, but when it did … And I enjoyed most agreeable company in the person of the great granddaddy honu (sea turtle) of Honokeana Bay.

Across that bay from where I surfed is Napili Point, offering a right (south side) and a left (north side). One or both of these is aptly named “hole in the head.”  The waves abruptly hit a shelf, jump up, and barrel.  Waves like these are called “slabs.” 

Looks promising. Punishment is possible.

It's as shallow as it looks.

Courtesies are not always extended.

There's getting shacked and there's getting worked: you CAN get caught inside.

 
There are beginner waves, intermediate waves, advanced waves, and then there are slabs. Slabs require a different approach: mental derangement coupled with extreme talent. Experience helps, but offers no guarantees. Pipeline is a slab. Teahupo'o is a more radical slab. Shipstern's Bluff is a slab that causes mutant demons to materialize out of nowhere.

A few days ago, when we were sipping wine at Merriman’s (on a point, surrounded on three sides by water), a particularly wicked slab dominated our view to the north. For example, waves cross the reef and collide at ninety degree angles, mimicking a checkerboard. The best hope for a ride breaks right over dry reef. Today, we went there for the sunset. And we noticed the slab had its own specialists. Two bodyboarders were ripping it to shreds. Just proves: no wave in Hawai‘i goes unridden.

Just before these photos were taken, we witnessed yet another amazing sunset:

Postcards from Maui - Day 10

The surf had been building throughout the day, and the lineup was empty. But I opted for a day of relaxing and guitar practice. I had finally decided to have a go-out, when an opportunity arose for a second whale watch, this time with our friends. I can surf nearly all year. The choice was obvious.

We embarked on the Ocean Explorer just before 4 pm. This is the smallest of Pacific Whale Foundation's fleet, and there was a bit of a swell on. You needed sea legs for this one, thought we weren't getting tossed.

We soon found ourselves surrounded. There were several competition pods, and the one we followed was fierce. I suspect that competition pods are so focused on the bar brawl (as our guide put it) that they hardly notice boats following them around. Our pod was following a mom with a week-old baby (merely the size of a pickup truck).

Humpback whales are classified as an endangered species, and there are several protections for them. One rule is to stay at least 100 yards away. Of course, the whales don't know this, so they might come closer than that to the boat. When they do, another rule comes into play: cut your motor. This is called "getting mugged by a whale." We got mugged. Two males swam under the boat and blew bubbles that surfaced right below us. Then one of them hung out just below the surface:

The light blotches are the whale just below the surface.

The following photos are of a baby whale we found on the way back to Lahaina. It was practicing tale slaps.

We were greeted by a Hawaiian monk seal (also endangered) as we cruised back into Lahaina harbor, proving the adventure never ends.

Here's our boat:

By the time we got home it was nearly dark. Here's all I could catch of the last light:

Postcards from Maui – Day 9

Got down to simply relaxing today. And watched the Super Bowl with friends.  That's it. Chillin' is good, too.  Maui offered up yet another spectacular evening of sunset variations ...

Postcards from Maui – Day 8

We witnessed the unfolding of dawn from the upper deck of Ocean Discovery, a Pacific Whale Foundation vessel. From the moment Lahaina Harbor was behind us, we got what we came to see and then some. Best line from the safety announcement on how to don flotation vests: “Once you have secured your vest and you are in the water, continue your adventure.” We have been on many of these cruises over more than ten years. None compared to this.

As we headed southeast, Haleakala shifted into view (all 10,020 feet of her) and the sun duly rose over her peak.

Sun rising over Haleakela in the distance

 
A pod formed just off our port side. At first they were pointed in the same direction, just floating. You might guess this was going to be low-key. But this was a competition pod. Things were, in fact, about to get intense.

What’s the competition you ask? It might be enough to say they are all males, who are competitive and seeking females. You get the picture. It’s not a fight to the death, but imagine the tonnage. And the barnacles. And the moves: Head lunges. Pectoral fins. Swerves. Quick directional changes. Tail slaps. Pedunkle throws. Flukes up and all dive to take it down below. And one spectacular breach only yards away. Think Robert De Niro at his most menacing: "Let's swim. You and me. Now. I'm talking to YOU. Swim. NOW."

Our captain deftly followed the pod for well over an hour – not too close, not too far, not too fast, not too slow. Just right. Eventually, one tired male swam away from the pod. He had clearly had enough.

There are no words to describe it. Here are a few of the pictures. I wish I could add sound.

Pedunkel throw

The weather changed a bit by the end of the day. These are from the property where we are staying.

Postcards from Maui - Day 7

I think we're snorkeling too much. I've seen so many turtles, I'm beginning to see them in rock formations.

The waves and the wind were both in abeyance. I took my 10-foot rental and went for a paddle, checking out a few of the local points. The water was like blue-tinted gin.

Other than that, I concentrated on doing next to nothing today. An unshaven, worthless beach bum. Dreams DO come true!

Oh, and DeeAnn whipped up a gourmet meal for our friends from Minnesota, and I managed the Ahi on the grill.